bo Bobble stitch
ch Chain stitch
FL Front loops
invdec Invisible decrease
Rnd Round
sc Single crochet
sc2tog Single crochet decrease ( two single crochet together)
sl st Slip stitch
st(s) Stitche(s)
Gauge:
As long as gauge is consistent, it is not important for this pattern. When you have completed the first few rounds of the head, add some stuffing. If it appears that the stitches are too large to hold the stuffing without it being visible, either increase the yarn tension or use a smaller hook. The amigurumi pictured is about 12 inches.
Notes:
This pattern is done in the traditional amigurumi spiral. Rounds are continuous and are not joined. For this reason, it is important to use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
Special Stitches:
Bobble (bo)
Invisible Decrease( invdec)
Magic circle
Whip stitch
(I will be working on some tutorials for the above stitches. If you have any questions, feel free to post them in the comments sections)
Head and Torso
With A, make a magic, and ch 1.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in the ring, pull tight to form the round. (6).
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* (18)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* (24)
Rnd 5: sc in each st around (24)
Rnd 6: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts* (30)
Rnd 7:*1 sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st, 1 sc in the next 2 sts* (36)
Rnd 8 - 11: sc in each st around (36)
Rnd 12: *sc in next 2 sts, invdec, sc in next 2 sts* (30)
Rnd 13: sc in each st around (30)
Rnd 14: *invdec, sc in next 3 sts* (24)
Rnd 15: *1 sc in next 2 sts, invdec* (18)
Rnd 16: *invdec, sc in next 4 sts* (15)
Rnd 17-18: sc in each st around (15)
Change to B when there are two loops left on the hook for the last st of Rnd 18. Begin stuffing your amigurumi. (if you are using safety eyes, insert them before you stuff your head)
Rnd 19: *2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 4 sts* (18)
Rnd 20: *sc in the next 2 sts, 2 single crochet in the next st, sc in the next 3sts* (21)
Rnd 21-23: sc in each st (21)
Rnd 24: *sc in the next 6 sts, 2sc in the next st* (24)
Rnd 25-26: sc in each st (24)
Rnd 27: *sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 4 st* (27)
Rnd 28-29: sc in each st (27)
Rnd 30: *2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 8 sts* (30)
Rnd 31: sc in each st (30)
Rnd 32: in the FL only, *sc in the next 5 st, 2sc in the next st* (35)
Rnd 33-34: sc in each st around (35)
Join the last st of Rnd 34 to the next st with a sl st and fasten off. Weave away the tail. Stuff the torso.
Arms
Make 2
With A, make a magic circle, ch 1
Rnd 1: 6 sc in the magic ring, pull tight (6)
Rnd 2: *2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts* (8)
Rnd 3: *sc in the next 3 sts, 2sc in the next st* (10)
Rnd 4-5: sc in each st (10)
Rnd 6: sc in the next st, bo in the next st, sc in the next 8 sts (10)
Rnd 7: sc in each st (10)
Rnd 8: *invdec, sc in the next 3 sts* (8)
Rnd 11: *2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st* (12)
Rnd 12-23: sc in each st (12)
Join the last st of Rnd 23 to the next st with a sl st and fasten off. Leave a 12 inch tail to attach the arms later. Stuff the arms.
Legs
Make 2
With B, make a magic circle, ch 1.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in the magic circle, pull tight (6)
Rnd 2: *2 sc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st* (10)
Rnd 3: *sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts* (14)
Rnd 4: *sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 3 sts* (18)
Rnd 5: BL only, sc in each st (18)
Rnd 6-7: sc in each st (18)
Rnd 8: sc in the next st, invdec 4 times, sc in the next 9 sts (14)
Rnd 9: BL only, sc in next st, sc2tog 2 times, sc in the next 3 sts, sc2tog 2 times, sc in the next
2 sts (10)
Rnd10: 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 9 sts(11)
Rnd 11: sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 5 sts (12)
Rnd 12: sc in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st (13)
Change to C when there are two loops left on the hook for the last st of Rnd 12.
Rnd 13: 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 6 st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 5 st (15)
Rnd 14-24: sc in each st (15)
Rnd 25: sc in the next 14 sts, 2 sc in the next st (16 sts)
Rnd 26: sc in each st (16)
First leg only: Join with a sl st to the next st. Fasten off leaving a 12 inch tail.
Second Leg only: Place a st marker in the last st without joining or fastening off.
Joining the legs: Face the legs so that they are next to each other with the tail of the first leg in the middle of the legs. Thread the long tail through your yarn needle. Use a whip stitch to join two sts from each leg. Tie a knot, and weave away the tail. There should be 14 st left on each leg, 28 in all.
Starting where you left your stitch marker in Rnd 26, you will go around each st. The outer rim of both legs (28 sts) is the new round. Do not crochet into the sts where you connected the legs, just move onto the next leg and keep going;
Rnd 1: sc in each st (28)
Rnd 2: sc in the next 8 st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 9 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the
next 9 sts (30)
Rnd 3-4: sc in each st (30)
Join with a sl st to the next st. Fasten off leaving a 24 inch tail.
Attach the top/bottom: Stuff bottom half of amigurumi. Look inside the torso and find Rnd 31, where you had crocheted in the FL only. Using your yarn needle attach the top of the pants to the BLs of the sts from RND 31 with a whip st. Go around twice to make sure your amigurumi is firmly attached.
Attach the arms: Pin the arms where you would like them. Using the tail you left at the end of the arms, neatly sew the arms to the body. Make sure that the thumbs (bo) are facing up.
Hair: Eyelash yarn, can sometimes be difficult to work with. Because of this, it is often better to crochet with less tension on the yarn. Remember that when using eyelash yarn, the wrong side/inside of your work is often more fuzzy than the right side/outside of your work. You have two options, you can either crochet as you normally would and then flip it inside out, or you can crochet along the inside rim of the hair wig.
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in the second ch from the hook (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st (12)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st* (18)
Rnd 4: *sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st* (24)
Rnd 5: *2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 3 sts* (30)
Rnd 6: *sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 2 sts* (36)
Rnd 7-11: sc in each st (36)
Fasten off and leave a long tail. Position the hair on Daryl’s head. If necessary, pin it in place. Using a blunt needle and the tail, go around and fasten the hear to the head using a whip stitch. Hide the rest of the tail inside your amigurumi.
Face: Using your embroider floss, crochet Daryl’s face onto the amigurumi. Be careful that you are not pulling stuffing forward as you embroider your face. You can copy the face as you see it in the picture, or create your own. If you are not familiar with making a face, practice on some felt before hand or use a different type of face. Some people use beads or safety eyes. Others cut out little pieces of felt in the shapes of different facial features. You can also make eyes with polymer clay. The possibilities are endless, so don’t be afraid to be creative.
Squirrels: The squirrels are made with brown polymer clay. Make sure that you put a hole in the head of the squirrel like a bead before you bake the clay so that you put string through it afterword. Follow the directions for your polymer clay when baking the squirrels. After you string the squirrels, just put them over Daryl’s shoulders.
Crossbow: Make your crossbow using the polymer clay. Follow the polymer clay directions for baking your clay. In order to attach the cross bow, put the arms in the desired position. Using color A, add a few sts to hold the arms together. In the amigurumi above, the right hand is stitched to the left wrist. Now all you need to do it glue the cross bow into place. After adding the glue, put a large binder clip to hold it in place until the glue is dry.
Voila! Now you have Daryl Dixon from AMC’s the Walking Dead!
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If you email me (nicr0ch3t@gmail.com) a picture of your Daryl Dixon, I will feature it on this blog, as well as both the Nicrochet and Necrochet facebook pages.
I would love any feedback about this pattern that you might offer. If you find any errors, please let me know and I will make corrections.
Also, it is fine to use this pattern to make projects for both sale and personal use.
Please do not sell this pattern as your own. If you would like to share this pattern with a friend, feel free to send them a link to this blog post.
